Expert Advice

In This Section:

1. Save money on your fuel bills
2. Spark plugs - routine maintenance
3. Give your car a 'Pre Holiday' check
4. Avoid overheating
5. How to check your tyres and pressures
6. Changing a wheel in an emergency
7. Batteries and how to replace them
8. How to use jump leads
9. Check your oil
10. Fit new wiper blades
11. Find the correct size wheel trims

Save Money on Your Fuel Bills

Saving fuel makes economic sense. Prices at the pumps continue to rise and fuel, both petrol and diesel, are now more expensive than ever. With prices predicted to rise even further, getting better fuel economy makes even more sense.

There are other considerations too. Petrol and diesel vehicles produce carbon dioxide - a greenhouse gas which has a significant effect on climate change. Pollution from cars may also adversely affect the health of vulnerable people, such as the elderly, asthmatics and those with heart or lung diseases.

The best way to save money and the planet is to use your car less. Car sharing clubs are becoming more popular and many people are opting to work from home instead of commuting daily. Another great way to save some money on your motoring costs, is to spend some money on a Haynes Automotive Repair Manual, available on this website.

Haynes is the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals and is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by-step information for both basic and more complex tasks. There are more than 300 Haynes service and repair manuals available, covering both classic and modern cars, motorcycles and vans. From the viewpoint of improving fuel economy, each manual contains detailed instructions for maintaining the efficiency of your vehicle, all with simple step-by-step instructions.

Some Simple Ways to Save Money

1. SLOW DOWN! Don't cruise at 80 to 85 mph on motorways. Stick to the legal speed limit of 70 mph and you could save up to 4 pence per mile in small cars and even more in bigger cars. By reducing your speed even further, you could save even more!
2. Check your tyre pressures often. Under-inflated tyres can can cost you up to 8% more fuel - and they'll wear out much faster too!
3. Have your car serviced regularly (or save even more money by doing it yourself). A well maintained engine is more efficient and less polluting.
4. Drive smoothly and consistently; this can reduce fuel consumption by more than 10% in urban areas and saves wear and tear on brakes, tyres and suspension. Fierce acceleration and harsh braking, both cost money.
5. Use the gears so that your engine is operating at its most fuel efficient (usually the rpm where maximum torque is generated). This could cut fuel consumption by up to 25%.
6. Remove that roof rack! Fully loaded a roof rack can add 30% to fuel consumption. Even empty roof bars may add 7 or 8%
7. Turn off the air conditioning system and the heated rear or front window when they are not needed to save up to 10% at the pumps.
8. For potentially bigger savings, opt for a more fuel efficient car - it will cause less pollution and save you money on tax as well as fuel. Some petrol/electric hybrids can travel 60 miles or more on a gallon of petrol!

Spark Plugs - Routine Maintenance

When it comes to using fuel efficiently, spark plugs are one of the most critical parts of a petrol car's engine and they operate in the most hostile environment. Thousands of times per minute, they must spark strongly in each hot and highly pressurised engine cylinder. It's not surprising that they wear out, but they do so gradually over tens of thousands of miles.

So you may not notice the resulting deterioration in performance - the increased fuel consumption and decreased acceleration. Eventually the signs become more noticeable - misfiring, erratic running and difficult starting. Long before that the spark plugs should have been replaced. The replacement interval varies depending on the manufacturer; anything from every 10,000 miles to 60,000 miles or more maybe specified.

If this sounds like a job for a garage, don't be put off. Replacing spark plugs is just one of the many DIY tasks covered by Haynes Workshop Manuals. Haynes will give you a step-by-step guide to changing the spark plugs in your car and give you the confidence to not just change your own spark plugs, but perform many other routine servicing and maintenance jobs - to save even more money.

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Give your car a 'pre-holiday' check

Breaking down is always a nuisance but on holiday it can be a nightmare. Think about it; you miss the ferry and arrive late at your destination, tired and hungry. Your children get tired, fed up and fractious, and paying for the repairs uses up all of your holiday money. Worse still you may miss your holiday altogether and see nothing more exciting than the back of a breakdown truck.

Lets face it, if you usually cover 100 miles a week dawdling around town, then expecting your car to cope with a mammoth 2,000 mile drive could be just asking for trouble.

At peak holiday periods, the UK's major breakdown organisations deal with more than 50,000 calls a day. Yet most faults are simple things - low engine oil or coolant levels, faulty jacks, snapped drive belts and so on - all of which could easily be avoided by carrying out a vital pre-holiday check.

Don't let your car spoil your holiday, give it a clean bill of health with the assistance of Haynes - a name that is both instantly recognisable and trusted

Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by-step information for carrying out all kinds of jobs on the car, including simple tasks such as the 'pre-holiday check' below. For more advice on model specific procedures, please refer to the manufacturers handbook or appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual, available from DRB Car Spares or this website.

Pre-holiday car checklist

At least a week before taking your car on holiday, you should carry out a number of simple checks - some of which should be repeated just before you leave.

1. First check that your car won't be due for an MOT test or a service while you are away. If necessary, get these done before you leave. Or you could save some money and do the service yourself - it's easier than you think!
2. Now, with the vehicle on level ground and a cold engine, check all the fluid levels - engine oil and coolant, brake, clutch and power steering reservoirs, plus the screen washer bottle and automatic transmission fluid if appropriate.
3. Top up if necessary with the oil or fluid as detailed in the car's handbook or the Haynes manual. If you check the fluid levels regularly and notice a significant drop in any of them, there may be a leak - get a garage to investigate.
4. Inspect the engine auxiliary drive-belt or fan-belt for cracks and separation of the belt plies. Get a new belt fitted, or do it yourself if necessary. Always carrying a spare belt is a good idea
5. Check the condition of the tyres carefully, including the one on the spare wheel. This could be a good opportunity to use the jack and ensure that it works properly (it may even be missing altogether).
6. Removing each of the wheels in turn will make it easier to inspect the tyres for cuts, abrasions, bulges or embedded nails or stones. Check the tread depth with an indicator gauge. The UK legal limit of 1.6 mm is an absolute minimum and ideally you should replace any tyre with less than 3 mm of tread before embarking on a lengthy holiday journey.
7. Check the wheels to see if they have been damaged by 'kerbing'. A particularly clean patch around the rim could indicate a missing wheel balance weight. Using a tyre pressure gauge, check the inflation pressure of each tyre. A low reading could indicate a slow puncture, which you should get checked out.
8. If you will be driving abroad at sustained high speeds, or loading the car to its maximum, the tyre pressures may need to be raised above normal- check your handbook or Haynes manual for details.
9. Now check the condition of the wiper blades. Clean them with a tissue dipped in screen-wash concentrate. If they are cracked or show any signs of deterioration, or if they smear a perfectly clean screen, replace them.
10. Make sure all the external lights are functioning correctly - including rear fog lights. You can check brake lights unaided by seeing if they illuminate a wall or garage door. Try the horn too. Finally clean the windows, inside and out and wipe the lamp lenses and door mirrors.
11. If you are going on holiday abroad, you may want to check out the 'Motoring Abroad' section on this website for a list of essential items you may require such as warning triangles, spare bulbs and first aid kits. All these items are available in the 'Travel Accessories' section on this website.
12. Just before you leave for your holiday, check the fluid levels and tyre pressures again.

Your 'Pre-Holiday' health check is complete - Bon Voyage!

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Don't Get Overheated

Traffic congestion is often a feature of holiday journeys. You shuffle along in a queue of traffic as the sun beats down - mile after mile at a crawl. Then it happens - the engine boils over and suddenly you're in holiday hell.

Modern cars are very advanced but they still rely on some basic principles. Water is still pumped around the engine and the heat it collects is dissipated through the radiator - which is cooled by air flowing through it when the car is on the move. When the car is stationary or moving slowly, an electric fan operates automatically to draw air through the radiator. But if the system is not operating perfectly, it will fail at the worst possible moment so that both you and the engine become overheated.

However, doing a few simple checks before you set off on that long holiday journey should mean your engine stays cool - and so do you!

Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out precautionary checks such as these as well as routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by-step information for both basic and more complex tasks. They also tell you what tools you may need and which products are compatible with your make of vehicle.

For more advice on model specific procedures, please refer to the vehicle hand-book or the appropriate Haynes manual. Haynes workshop manuals are available at DRB Car Spares and on this website.

Essential checks to avoid overheating

1. Most modern cars have a coolant reservoir with MAX and MIN markings. With the engine cold, the level in the reservoir should be between these marks. get into the habit of checking this weekly - the need for frequent topping up suggests a leak in the system.
2. To top up the system, unscrew the reservoir cap slowly when the engine is cold and allow any pressure to escape. Don't carry out this procedure when the engine is hot as there is a danger of scalding. Fill to the MAX line - but not above - with a 50/50 mixture of water and anti-freeze. Refit the cap tightly and wipe away any spillage.
3. For topping up, always use anti-freeze suitable for your make of vehicle - check this in your hand-book or Haynes manual - and mix it with water. In an emergency, plain water will do but remember it will dilute the anti-freeze mixture in the system and reduce the effectiveness of the corrosion inhibitors. The percentage of anti-freeze in the system should be checked before the winter, either by a garage, or do it yourself with a simple anti-freeze tester available on this website or in store at DRB Car Spares. The coolant should be changed every two to five years depending on the type and quality of the anti-freeze.
4. On cars where the water pump is driven by an auxiliary drive-belt or fan-belt, make sure that this belt is in good condition and correctly tensioned. See your hand-book or Haynes manual for details.
5. Note that badges or auxiliary lights mounted ahead of the radiator can restrict the airflow and may lead to overheating. Towing a caravan makes the engine work harder and this too can lead to overheating. And if the engine does overheat............
6. If you are stuck in a traffic jam, keep an eye on the engine temperature gauge. Before it gets into the red, the electric engine cooling fan should come on automatically. If the engine does start to overheat, put the heater on full (maximum heat, highest blower fan speed) to disperse some heat. Pull over in a safe place and switch off the engine.
7. Check if something is blocking the airflow to the radiator - such as a plastic bag. Lift the bonnet cautiously (beware the electric cooling fan may still be running) and see if there is steam escaping from a split in a hose or a hole in the radiator. A leaking radiator or coolant hose could be secured temporarily with a hose bandage or similar. This could get you out of trouble until a new hose can be fitted. A leaking radiator will have to be replaced eventually, but adding a leak sealant such as Radweld or Kalimex (both available on this website) should fix it for a while.
8. When applicable, check that the water pump drive-belt is not broken or slack.
9. Wait for the engine to cool down before carrying out any repairs or checking the coolant level. Top it up as necessary and proceed with caution - keeping an eye on the temperature gauge

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Check your tyres - don't leave it to chance

A tyre at incorrect pressure may have less grip, be more likely to puncture and can increase fuel consumption. It will also wear out much faster. yet surveys show that many cars have one or more tyres incorrectly inflated and few drivers check their tyre condition and pressures regularly enough.

an astonishing 87% of 789 drivers interviewed recently by jamjar cars confessed to forgetfulness when it came to carrying out this basic but vital safety check. and most women, despite being known to be safer drivers, put their lives in greater risk by either neglecting this task or leaving it to others to perform - or not.

Haynes the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. Each manual lists the correct tyre pressures (they vary accordingly to the particular model and the number of passengers and amount of luggage being carried) and explains how to check them - a five minute task that should be done weekly.

This vital check may save you from returning to your vehicle to find a flat tyre, experiencing a blow out on the motorway, or even worse, a crash.

Pressures should be checked when the tyres are cold (not driven for at least 30 minutes), so a garage or filling station may not be the most convenient place to do it. It's probably better to make it a regular task you do at home - for which you will require a pressure gauge. a good quality tyre pressure gauge is not expensive and a digital version is usually easier to read. Alternatively you could buy a foot pump with a built-in gauge, or a compressor which runs off the car battery. DRB Car Spares carry a large range both on this website and at their store in Warrington.

Don't forget to check the pressure on the spare tyre, which should normally be inflated to the highest of the pressures quoted for your car (or higher in the case of a 'space saver' spare.

For more advice on model specific procedures, please refer to your vehicles hand-book or the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual.

How to check your tyre pressures

1. First check the required pressures in the vehicle hand-book or the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. make sure you get the correct figures which are applicable to your specific model of vehicle and note any differences between normal load conditions (up to three people) and fully laden.

2. Taking each wheel in turn, use a piece of rag to wipe the dirt from around the tyre valve. Unscrew and remove the valve dust cap. If a dust cap is missing, get a new one. Don't do without it because it prevents dirt from entering the valve, which could damage the valve or cause a slow puncture.

3. Push the head of your tyre pressure gauge firmly on to the valve so that no air can be heard escaping. Remove the gauge to check the reading. If it is too low and you have a foot pump or compressor, push the nozzle onto the valve and secure it in place with the locking lever or screw connector. If your pump has a built in gauge, it will show the tyre pressure so you don't need to use a separate gauge.

4. Inflate the tyre, then unlock and remove the nozzle. Use your tyre pressure gauge again. If the pressure is now to high, you need to gently depress the pin in the centre of the valve. Your tyre pressure gauge may have a conical end for doing this. Alternatively you can use a small screwdriver or even a key. Don't forget to replace the valve dust cap.

5. If one tyre is found to have a pressure much lower than it should, or needs pumping up regularly, it may have a slow puncture or a leaking valve. Get this checked out before it becomes serious.

6. While you are about it, look at each tyre and wheel to check for damage. Check the tread depth with an indicator gauge. The UK legal limit of 1.6 mm is an absolute minimum and ideally you should replace any tyre with less than 3 mm of tread.

How to change a wheel in an emergency

Yes it will be raining. Yes, you'll be tired and anxious to get home. Yes, you'll be wearing smart clothes. Flat tyres never occur on sunny days when you have time on your hands or when you're wearing gardening clothes. Fitting the spare wheel yourself is, nevertheless. a good option compared to waiting for a breakdown recovery service - it only takes a few minutes and you will draw admiring glances from passers-by! But you must be prepared. Aside from a working jack and a spare wheel with an inflated tyre, you will need a pair of gloves, a bit of old carpet to kneel on and a couple of small blocks of wood (about 50 mm square). You may also need a pair of cutters or a sharp knife, a flat bladed screwdriver and a special socket for your locking wheel nuts/bolts. And a Haynes workshop manual or your vehicles handbook would be a good idea.

Changing a wheel is straightforward, provided you know where the tools and spare wheel are kept, and how to use a jack. If you've just bought the car, or if you have never changed a wheel before, it is well worth practising at home - then you'll know exactly what to do if you do get a flat tyre.

For more advice on model specific procedures, please refer to the vehicle hand-book or the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual.

1. Make sure the car is on flat level ground (if possible). Apply the hand brake, engage first gear or set automatic transmission to 'P' (Park), then use the blocks of wood (or something similar) to chock the wheel diagonally opposite to  the one being changed.
2. Put on the gloves, get out the spare wheel, vehicle jack and wheel-brace. They are usually located in the luggage area, under a cover in the floor - see your car's handbook for details.
3. Lay the carpet beside the flat tyre to kneel on. Where applicable, remove the wheel trim/cover - you may need to cut the nylon cable ties fitted to stop theft - then prise off the trim or cover with a flat bladed screwdriver. Use the wheel-brace to loosen each wheel nut/bolt on the affected wheel by about half a turn - if necessary, employing the special socket for any anti-theft nuts or bolts.
4. Engage the jack head in the jacking point nearest to the affected wheel (check your hand-book or Haynes manual for details). Slide the spare wheel part way under the car, near to the wheel to be removed, but out of the way of the jack (this is a safety measure in case the jack slips). Raise the jack until the tyre is 25 to 50 mm off the ground.
5. remove the wheel nuts/bolts and lift off the wheel. Drag out the spare wheel and slide the wheel you have just removed under the car in its place.
6. fit the spare wheel, then refit the nuts/bolts and tighten them until they are just holding the wheel firmly. Remove the wheel from under the car, then lower the jack and remove it.
7. Tighten one wheel nut/bolt securely, using the wheel-brace and then tighten one diagonally or nearly diagonally opposite. Tighten the other one, two or three nuts/bolts in a similar way and then refit the wheel trim, if applicable.
8. When you have finished, stow the removed wheel and tools in their correct locations. Check the pressure in the new tyre with your gauge or at the next available garage. In addition, you should have the wheel nuts/bolts tightened to the correct torque setting. You can do this yourself if you have a torque wrench, or else a local garage or a tyre fitting depot can do it for you.
9. It is important to get the flat tyre repaired or renewed as soon as possible - don't put it off!

TOP TIP

Positioning a wheel on the hub can be tricky, as you have to support its weight at the same time as you line up the holes in the wheel with the hub. If you find this difficult, try resting the wheel on your shoe to help you to manoeuvre the wheel into position (but be careful not to hurt your foot). Alternatively, you can slide the wheel brace or screwdriver between the bottom of the tyre and the ground and use this as a lever to position the wheel on the hub.

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How to Avoid The Won't Start nightmare

Few things are more instantly depressing than a car that will not start. You turn the key in expectation and are rewarded with - nothing! Battery failure is the number one reason motorists call a breakdown service. And it is just one of many common faults that are caused by a lack of basic maintenance.

Of course, having your vehicle serviced regularly is important but it does not stop there. Over the past ten years, manufacturers have increased the service intervals, therefore there is an even greater need to carry out safety and maintenance checks in between these long periods. Carrying out such checks will help avoid unwelcome bills and minimize the expense or the inconvenience of a breakdown.

Battery protection is extremely important if motorists are to avoid the inconvenience and expense of a flat battery. This is especially relevant if batteries are left standing for prolonged periods, such as classic cars, motorcycles and seasonal agricultural vehicles. Batteries which are left standing for an extended period, will eventually discharge and if left untreated will eventually kill the battery. To avoid this kind of battery failure, the use of a smart charging system such as the CTEK range of battery chargers is highly recommended.

It is a common misconception that a jump start, followed by a long drive, fully recharges the battery from the alternator. This is not the case, as an alternator will only partly charge the battery. After the first drive, the battery will need to be charged or it will quickly be drained once again.

Although many car owners believe that modern cars are too complicated for them to work on, this is not so. Routine tasks can be done by anybody - if they know what they are doing. Haynes, the world-leading publisher of automotive repair manuals, is renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. The manuals provide authoritative and accurate step-by-step information for both basic and more complex tasks. 

DRB Car Spares & Accessories stock over 200 Haynes Workshop Manuals at their store in Warrington, with many of the most popular titles listed on this website.

A flat battery and how to replace it.

 Modern car electrical systems put big demands on the battery. Sometimes a battery will fail with no warning, but usually the first sign of trouble is that the engine is reluctant to start when cold, with the starter motor turning more slowly than usual. This is then followed by a failure to start at all.

There are three main reasons for a battery to be flat. One is old age, in which case fitting a new battery will cure the problem. The second is leaving the lights on (or even the radio or alarm, if parked for a long time); generally a jump-start will put things right - although the life of the battery will be shorter following a complete discharge. The third is a problem with the charging system; fitting a new battery won't cure that.

DRB Car Spares offer a FREE battery and alternator system check at their Warrington store. So at the first sign of trouble, or if you just want a pre winter check for your own piece of mind, just call in and see us (no appointment is necessary). We carry massive stocks of batteries in store to suit most makes of cars, vans and light commercial vehicles.

A Haynes Service and Repair Manual gives simple tests so that you can identify the reason for your flat battery.

Replacing a Battery

You'll need a new battery of the correct size and capacity to fit your car. If you plan to use it straight away, it may need to be charged - ask when you buy it. All batteries supplied by DRB Car Spares will be fully charged and ready to fit. Buy some copper grease or special battery terminal corrosion protector spray too.

Warning: Batteries contain sulphuric acid, which is poisonous and causes burns; they give off hydrogen gas, which is explosive when mixed with air; when charged they contain enough electrical energy to cause burns or fires if short-circuited. Follow all precautions specified by the manufacturer.

1. Disconnect the electrical leads from the old battery, negative (earth) first (look for a '-' sign near the battery terminal). Undo the fixing clamp nut or bolt - details vary for each car - and lift out the battery. Be careful not to drop it, and keep it upright to avoid acid spillage.
2. Fit the new battery, secure it with the clamp and connect the electrical leads, negative (earth) last. Protect the terminals against corrosion by smearing them with copper grease or using an anti-corrosion spray.
3. Check that the negative (earth) lead connection to the car body is clean and tight. Unbolt it and clean it with a wire brush or abrasive paper, if necessary.

For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. These manuals are available from DRB Car Spares.

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How To Use Jump Leads

Few things are more dispiriting than turning the ignition key and hearing just a click, or nothing at all. Just when you need your car to start, it plays dead. Worse still, it's probably your fault. Look at the light switch, did you leave it switched on?

Modern car batteries are very reliable, but leaving the lights on for a few hours will soon discharge them. Even a boot light or an interior light left on overnight can flatten a battery. A car left standing for a month or so may discharge its battery just from the current drawn by the alarm.

There are other causes of a flat battery - the charging system may be faulty or the battery may simply be worn out. Whatever the cause, the tell tale signs are headlights that fail to come on or just glow dimly, and an engine that turns slowly or not at all when you turn the ignition key.

To start a car with a flat battery, you need a friend and a good quality set of jump leads (booster cables). Better still you need a friend WITH a good set of jump leads. your friend must have a car with a battery in good condition and the jump leads should be suitable for the size of car they will be starting.

To jump start a car, simply follow the instructions below. Do remember that fully discharging a battery will considerably reduce its life - so don't be surprised if it needs replacing sooner rather than later.

For more advice on model specific procedures, please refer to the manufacturers handbook or the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual available from DRB Car Spares or on this website.

1. Position another car near yours so that the batteries are close, but do not let the vehicles touch each other.

Switch off the ignition and all electrical equipment on both vehicles.

Apply the hand brakes and ensure that the gears are in neutral for manual transmissions or 'P' (Park) for automatic transmissions.

Open the bonnets of both cars.

2. Connect one end of the red jump lead to the positive (+) terminal of the flat battery, do not let the other end of the red lead touch any vehicle metal.

Connect the other end of the red lead to the positive (+) terminal of the other battery (the boosting battery)

3. Connect one end of the black jump lead to the negative (-) terminal of the boosting battery and connect the other end of the black lead to a bolt or metal bracket, well away from the battery, or on the engine block of the vehicle to be started.

Do not connect the negative lead directly to the battery of the car to be started, as this could cause dangerous sparking to occur.

4. Ensure that the jump leads cannot come into contact with any moving parts of either engine.

Start the engine of the boosting vehicle and run it at a fast idle speed.

Now start the engine of the vehicle with the flat battery and check that it is running properly.

5. Stop the engine of the boosting vehicle only.

Switch on the lights, the heated rear window and the heater blower motor on your vehicle - this will prevent any voltage surges.

Disconnect the jump leads in the reverse order of connection, then switch off the lights etc.

Close the bonnets on both vehicles.

6. Now you can drive off. It will take a little time for the alternator to charge the battery, so don't stop the engine again too soon and try not to stall the engine while driving away.

The battery will probably need to be fully charged with a good quality battery charger, such as one of the CTEK range of smart chargers available on this website. 

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Oil Check

One of the simplest weekly checks on your car could be very expensive if you ignore it. Yet research by oil company Comma showed that 60% of motorists only do it every two months and 10% not at all.

Checking the engine oil level is one of the many simple tasks covered in detail in Haynes Manuals and you shouldn't wait two months(or until the warning light comes on!) - see below for how to check the oil level. There are other simple weekly checks explained in Haynes Manuals - coolant, brake and power steering fluid levels, washer fluid top-up, tyre pressures, wiper blades and lights. Just a couple of minutes checking these things could save you from a breakdown or an on-the-spot fine.

1. Make sure your car is on level ground
2. Check the level before the car is driven, or at least five minutes after the engine has been switched off (to avoid a false reading)
3. Open the bonnet and withdraw the dipstick from its tube (the owner's handbook or the Haynes manual for your vehicle will show where it is located)
4. Using a clean rag or paper towel, wipe the oil from the dipstick
5. Insert the clean dipstick back into the tube as far as it will go and then withdraw it again. Note the oil level on the dipstick: it should be between the MAX and MIN marks (for details of the marks see your handbook or manual)
6.  If the level is below or only slightly above the MIN mark, topping up is required. The Haynes Manual will show you how to do this and with what specification of oil.

DRB Car Spares stock a large range of oils and lubricants from some of the largest manufacturers. These include most of the latest vehicle specific, long life oils to suit modern vehicles with extended service intervals. Our friendly and helpful staff are always on hand to offer help and advice as to which oils are suitable for your vehicle.

Drive with clear vision

 Rain, snow, dead bugs and bird poo - your car's wiper blades have to cope with it all. And it's vital they do - unless your windscreen is clear, you are a danger to yourself and others.

Split, cracked or perished wiper blades will lead to an MOT test failure, but they should be checked much more frequently than once a year. In fact, Haynes Manuals list wiper blades in the section on weekly checks for your vehicle.

Haynes is the world's leading publisher of automotive repair manuals and renowned for teaching millions of car owners how to carry out routine maintenance and repairs. Haynes publishes manuals for more than 300 models of cars and vans as well as useful glove box guides such as 'Your Car'. Many DIY maintenance tasks are very straightforward and take only a few minutes. Replacing wiper blades is one of them and you'll hardly get your hands dirty. First, check the condition of each of the wipers on your car - don't forget the one for the rear screen and those little ones on the head lamps (if fitted). If any need renewing, measure the lengths of the blades in inches (rounded up to the nearest whole number).

These days, new wiper blades (the rubber strips) come ready fitted to their metal mountings. If yours is an older or a classic car, you may be able to replace only the rubber portions, but it's a fiddly business. Renewing the whole blade is generally a better bet.

Buy the wiper blades to suit your exact year and model of vehicle - double-checking the lengths with your measurements. Note that some cars have wiper blades fitted with wind deflectors, and that some have different length blades on each side.

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Fitting New Windscreen Wipers

(Courtesy of Haynes Service & Repair Manuals)
Now follow these simple steps to fit the replacement wiper blades. The only tool you may need is a small screwdriver for dealing with the securing clips.

The type of clip we show here is typical but they do vary - see your Haynes Service and Repair Manual for details of the type fitted to your car.

1.      With the ignition off, unwrap your new blades and double check that they are the correct replacements. Lay them carefully on the bonnet - orientated correctly to the old blades, as this will help you fit them the right way round. Lift the wiper arm away from the screen until it locks in the upright position, or just hold on to it.

2.      Turn the old blade at right angles and unhook it; it may be necessary to depress one or two securing tabs to release it.

3.      If necessary, fit the correct plastic adaptor to the new blade - look on the packet for details. (Some blades come with the correct adaptor ready fitted.)

4.      Fit the blade to the arm, making sure it's fully home. Lower the blade gently on to the screen; wet the glass and check for correct operation.

There, it's as simple as that! If smearing is still a problem despite fitting new wiper blades, try cleaning the glass with a proprietary screen cleaner or a little undiluted screen wash additive.

For more advice on model-specific procedures, please refer to the appropriate Haynes Service and Repair Manual. Haynes Manuals available from DRB Car Spares.

Wheel Trims - How do you find your wheel size?

It's really easy - just look on the side of your tyre!

Wheel trims are are usually measured in inches and refer to the diameter of your car's wheels (13/14/15/16 inch). To find the size of the wheel trims you require, look on the sidewall of your tyre and you will see a series of numbers. The number following the letter R is your wheel size in inches. See the examples below:

165/65 R13 - here 13 is the size of your wheels. In this case you would order 13 inch Wheel Trims.

205/55 R16 - here 16 is the size of your wheels so you would order 16 inch Wheel Trims.

The letter R just indicates the Radial construction type of the tyre.

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